A: Transition duct is a flex or straight duct connected from clothes dryer to the wall of exhaust duct.

A: The flex duct can be fraying, crushed, offset, disconnect or made of vinyl/fire hazard foil flex. The metal duct may not seal or secure well which can leak out lint and carbon monoxide.

A: With vinyl/fire hazard foil flex or damaged duct, we would replace with fire-resistant foil flex and secure with steel bands to prevent any leakage. On metal duct like elbow and straight, we would secure and seal the seams with metal tape.

A: YES. But, the aluminum flex can easily be crushed like an empty can of pop which cannot spring back to its normal opening. Elbows are best to prevent aluminum flex from being crushed.

A: You can use a rectangle duct but it is best for us to evaluate and give some recommendations to improve airflow.

A: NO. Because, the risk of the dryer catching on fire, the utility bill increases, and shorten the life of the dryer.

A: It depends on your dryer usage, such as: the number of people in your household, and the amount of laundry you do, such as heavy clothes and towels that produce greater amounts of lint. The age and capacity of the dryer, the number of elbows in the dryer duct and the distance of the dryer duct - the shorter the vent, the better airflow it provides.

A: The screen catches the lint but some may escape through or bypass the filter. The back of the dryer has a flexible hose which leads to exhaust duct through the roof or a wall that is several feet away from the back of the dryer. This is the dryer vent that we are referring to. This vent can collect lint which becomes constricted and clogged that reduces the efficiency of the clothes dryer and greater risk of dryer fire.

A: New dryers are built more powerful which forces the old lint to become more compacted in the duct. There's nothing wrong with your new dryer, it's your dryer vent that is probably clogged and needs to be cleaned out.